Internal Layers Are The Secret To Sexy Volume, Without Losing Length

We all know that layers can make or break a hair cut. Even the most experienced pros can struggle to create the perfect balance, but internal layers are a need-to-know styling technique that guarantee instant texture and bounce, with zero risk of an accidental mullet. 

So what exactly are they? “Internal layers create movement and air pockets inside the hair without necessarily changing the overall length of a hairstyle. The length stays and the movement increases,” explains LA's coolest hair stylist, Sal Salcedo. “They exist to give the hair volume and shape it from the inside out,” he adds. “They also remove excessive weight making the hair seem less heavy but at the same time extremely voluminous." So basically, it's exactly the sort of win-win haircut we can really get behind.

“Traditional layers create volume, especially in the crown, but internal layers reduce weight in the lengths and add texture but without creating any bulk," agrees Yuki, hair designer and owner of Gavert Atelier Salon.

The benefit? “It brings the hairstyle to life without compromising length,” says Sal, “so it's perfect if you want improvement without the compromise of a big change.” Another pro? “Internal layers allow for easy maintenance if you want to be able to air dry your hair naturally and encourage your natural texture even more.”

According to Yuki, internal layers can be created using a combination of a slide cut and a point cut. The slide cut is when a hairdresser slides scissors along the hair while opening and closing to give a softer edge. A point cut, on the other hand, is when the hairdresser cuts into the ends of hair from a vertical angle to break up any blunt lines. 

“Using these techniques helps to remove the weight of the hair, creating more space between each section to generate more movement,” he says. “First, I feel the hair and look for parts of the overall style that are heavier, in order to identify which areas to focus on. Then I will use the slide and blunt cut on the sections underneath the surface layer of hair.”

Perfect for anyone with thick hair, or for those who don't want the choppy, bed-head finish of visible layers, internal layers can be totally invisible to the naked eye (hair might even appear to be one length), yet they are still able to create sultry movement and subtle texture. In fact, they're even worth considering if you've got short hair. “The shorter the hair, the denser it gets which doesn't always translates to actual volume,” says Sal. “Sometimes having more hair weighs everything down, so it’s important to know where to create the air pockets with layers that re-distribute the overall weight of the hair for an even flow.”

After the recent explosion of statement layering, including styles like the wolf cut and even a brief return of the mullet, it's not surprising that we're seeing a return to a more subtle layering look. “So many of my clients are asking for a more effortless style while is easy to maintain at home,” says Yuki. 

While internal layers may not be as noticeable as traditional layers, that doesn't mean they are any less effective at switching up your style. Plus, because internal layers create the ultimate crafted canvas, they make the perfect springboard to add a wispy fringe or a fun hair accessory. 

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